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Gwalior
Steeped in the splendour of its
past, the ancient capital of Gwalior has yet made a successful transition into a
modern Indian city, vibrant and bustling.A multitude of reigning dynasties, of
the great Rajput clans of the Pratiharas, Kacchwahas and Tomars have left
indelible etchings of their rule in this city of palaces, temples and monuments.
Gwalior's tradition as a royal capital continued until the formation of present
day India, with the Scindias having their dynastic seat here. The magnificent
mementoes of a glorious past have been preserved with care, giving Gwalior an
appeal unique and timeless.
This, then, is Gwalior : where a rich cultural tradition has been interwoven
into the fabric of modern life. Where a princely past lives on in great palaces
and their museums. Where a multitude of images merge and mix to present to the
visitor a city of enduring greatness.
Places to See
The entire city is a visual and
aesthetic feast, for the builders of Gwalior were great architects. Take a walk
through the streets of the city and you will discover old havelis with
exquisitely carved doorways and windows; at almost every street crossing you
will find statues of the Scindia family. Museumes and art galleries are treasure
houses and beautifully maintained palaces give the city its inimitable regal
flavour. Sightseeing in Gwalior is a magical trip into the centuries gone by.
The Fort
Standing on a steep mass of sandstone, Gwalior Fort dominates the city and is
its most magnificent monument. It has been a scene of momentous events :
imprisonments, battles and jauhars. A steep road winds upwards to the Fort,
flanked by statues of Jain tirthankaras, carved into the rock face. The
magnificent outer walls of the Fort still stand, two miles in length and 35 feet
high, bearing witness to its reputation for being one of the most invincible
forts of India. This imposing structure inspired Emperor Babar to describe it "the pearl amongst the fortresses of Hind."
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Within the fort are some marvels of medieval architecture. The 15th century
Gujari
Mahal is a monument to the love of Raja Mansingh Tomar for his Gujar queen,
Mrignayani. After he had wooed and won her, so the story goes, Mrignayani
demanded that he build her a separate palace with a constant water supply from
the River Rai, via an aqueduct. The outer structure of the Gujari Mahal has
survived in an almost total state of preservation; the interior has been
converted into an Archaeological Museum.
Also built by Raja Mansingh is the Man Mandir Palace, built between 1486
and 1517. The tiles that once adorned its exterior have not survived, but at the
entrance, traces of these still remain. There is a charming frieze here of ducks
paddling in turquoise waters. Within, the palace rooms stand bare, stripped of
their former glory, mute testimony to the passing of the centuries. Vast
chambers with fine stone screens were once the music halls, and behind these
screens, the royal ladies would learn music from the great masters of the day.
Below, circular dungeons once housed the state prisoners of the Mughals. The
Emperor Aurangzeb had his brother, Murad, imprisoned, and later executed, here.
Close by is Jauhar Pond, where in the Rajput tradition, the 'ranis' committed
mass 'sati' after their consorts had been defeated in battle. Though the major
portions of the Fort were built in the 15th century, references to this gigantic
complex can be traced back to 425 AD. Older than the city is the Suraj Kund
within the Fort walls, the original pond where Suraj Sen, or Suraj Pal as he was
later known, was cured by the Saint Gwalipa.
Teli ka Mandir
The Teli ka Mandir is a 9th century edifice, towering at 100 ft high. This is a
Pratihara Vishnu temple of a unique blending of architectural styles. The shape
of the roof is distinctively Dravidian, while the decorative embellishments have
the typically Indo-Aryan characteristics of Northern India.
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Also dedicated to Vishnu is the graceful little
Sas-Bahu-ka-Mandir,
built in 11th century. Another landmark is the historic Gurudwara Data Bandhi
Chhod built in the memory of Guru Hargobind Sahib, the 6th Sikh Guru who was
imprisoned here by Jehangir for over two years. At the time of his release, he
wanted 52 Hindu kings who were his fellow prisoners, released with him. Jehangir
was very impressed with the Guru and agreed to his condition. And, finally,
within the Fort complex, housed in the erstwhile barracks of the British
soldires, is Gwalior's unique gift to modern India : Scindia School.
Acknowledged as one of the finest schools in India, it is only fitting that the
country's young citizens receive the best educational grounding surrounded by
monuments to a past which is a constant inspiration.
Jai Vilas Palace
A splendour of a different kind exists in the Jai Vilas Palace, current
residence of the Scindia family. Some 35 rooms have been made into the Scindia
Museum, and in these rooms, so evocative of a regal lifestyle, the past
comes alive. Jai Vilas is an Italianate structure which combines the Tuscan and
Corinthian architectural modes. The imposing Darbar Hall has two central
chandeliers, weighing a couple of tonnes, and hung only after ten elephants had
tested the strength of the roof. Ceilings picked out in gilt, heavy draperies
and tapestries, fine Persian carpets, and antique furniture from France and
Italy are features of these spacious rooms.
Eyecatching treasures include : a silver train with cut-glass wagons which
served guests as it chugged around on miniature rails on the tables; a glass
cradle from Italy used for the baby Krishna each Janamashtami; silver dinner
services and swords that were once worn by Aurangzeb and Shah Jehan.There are, besides, personal momentoes of the past members of the Scindia
family: the jewelled slippers that belonged to Chinkoo Rani, four-poster beds,
gifts from practically every country in the world, hunting trophies and
portraits. The Scindia Museum offers an unparalleled glimpse into the rich
culture and lifestyle of princely India. Open everyday except Monday from 10 am
to 5 pm. Entry fees are Rs. 20/- for Indian and Rs. 100/- for foreign visitors.
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Monuments
The father of Hindustani classical music, the great
Tansen, one of the
'nine Jewels' of Akbar's court, lies buried in Gwalior. The memorial to this
great musician has a pristine simplicity about it, and is built in the early
Mughal architectural style. More than a monument, the Tansen's Tomb is part of
Gwalior's living cultural heritage; it is the venue of a music festival on a
national scale held annually in November-December. Leading musicians of the
country gather here to give performances during the festival.
More opulent than Tansen's Tomb, is the sandstone mausoleum of the Afghan
prince, Ghous Mohammed, also designed on early Mughal lines.
Particularly, exquisite are the screens which use the pierced stone technique,
as delicate as lace.The earliest freedom fighters, Tatya Tope and the indomitable
Rani of
Jhansi, are commemorated in memorials in Gwalior. There are cenotaphs at
major public crossings, memorials to Scindia kings and queens. Throughout the
city, there are these reminders of a proud past, of the great men and women of
Gwalior who have their place in the nation's roll of honour.
Located near the Residency at
Morar, the newly constructed Sun Temple
takes its inspiration from the famous Konark Sun Temple in Orissa.
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Art Galleries and Museums
The Gujari Mahal Archaeological Museum houses rare antiquities, some of
them dating back to the 1st century AD. Even though many of these have been
defaced by the iconoclastic Mughals, their perfection of form has survived the
ravages of time. Particularly worth seeing is the statue of Shalbhanjika
from Gyraspur, the tree goddess, epitome of perfection in miniature. The statue
is kept in the custody of the museum's curator, and can be seen on request. The
museum is open every day except Monday, from 10 am to 5 pm.
The Kala Vithika is another treasure house of the arts. It remains closed
on Sunday and public holidays. The Municipal Corporation Museum, which is
open all days except Mondays, has a very fine natural history section. The old
ancestral house of the legendry Ustad Hafiz Ali Khan has recently been converted
into 'Sarod Ghar' - Museum of Music by the Ustad Hafiz Ali Khan Memorial
Trust under the patronage and guidance of his great son and sarod maestro Ustad
Amzad Ali Khan. The museum has been rebuilt keeping in mind the old traditional
architecture of Gwalior and houses in it ancient instruments of the great Indian
Masters of yesteryears.
Gwalior Zoo, open every day from 8 am to 3 pm, has some rare species of
Indian wildlife kept in natural surroundings.
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